🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.